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Bali and Bikes

I have just returned from a six-day holiday in Bali and I'd like to share some experiences of this magical isle with you, especially in regards to bikes - or more specifically, scooters!

Arrival time was 6pm on Thursday evening. I was picked up from the Denpasar airport by a tour guide in a Suzuki van and was driven from there through Kuta to Legian and my hotel. My first impression was of loud, slow traffic that seemed to go all over the place. No particular road rules seemed to exist. There was a lot of honking of horns and I only saw two sets of traffic lights in the half hour trip, travelling at speeds of 30-40km/hr on streets more narrow than Flinders Lane.

Before leaving for Bali I had planned to hire a bike, but many well-meaning people said I'd 'be mad', that it's 'too chaotic' and 'you'll get yourself killed'. I didn't get my international drivers' license as a result. Although the traffic appears chaotic, it has its own order, and so I was sorry I listened to these miseries.

Bali traffic is 60 percent motor scooters, mostly Honda 110cc. You can hire a scooter for $AUS6 a day and petrol is only 20 cents per litre. You can also hire a rider to 'taxi' you to a destination which is much cheaper and more fun than a car.

Males and females all ride (women in sarongs ride side-saddle, high heels and all!) and it seemed that in country locations all children of 10 years or older would ride. Balinese ride rather than walk (they were amazed that I had walked to Kuta from Legian, for instance). Bikes are not limited to carrying a rider and pillion. I saw scooters carrying whole families! Bikes are also used for deliveries and it is not unusual to see large items being transported on them.

Bali is mainly Hindu and offerings are made every morning outside shops. Riders 'taxi' saronged women carrying trays of offerings held at shoulder height. While helmets are compulsory, many locals do not wear them outside of the city. Full-face helmets are often worn in a unique Balinese fashion - the chin guard rests on the forehead with the helmet tilted backwards!

In my travels I saw only one Harley (about a 1960s vintage), a couple of sporty looking 150cc bikes with fairings and a Honda CBR. The locals were impressed that I rode a 250cc and ride around at 100km/hr at home. In Bali I'm a legend - at home I'm a wuss!

If you're going to Bali think about riding, but only if you're prepared to go slowly and leave your road rage behind and get tooted at almost constantly!

Bronwyn Whitlocke